Oh, how I know the feeling.  We love our wildlife, right up to the moment they invade our garden or home!  There are a number of possibilities as a deterrent.  Some people have used a plastic snake, laying it on the perch area.  This can work for a while, but birds can be smart.  If they see the snake hasn’t moved for a few days, they could investigate further and attempt to push the snake off.  A fake owl is another possibility.  Having it perch in a nearby area can detract the birds, again perhaps for a while, perhaps for all season.  These snakes and owls can be purchased at many hardware stores, or even at the gardening store.

For birds, I have also found a great product that will work most every time.  It is a product that you install on the perch.  It has plastic (or metal) barbs, which will prevent the birds from landing.  These barbs won’t hurt the birds, even if they attempt to land.  They’ll just move on.  The company I am familiar with is NIXALITE.  Their web site is www.nixalite.com, and their phone number is 800-624-1189.  The only downside I’ve found is that in certain locations where the product is visible, it can look unattractive.

As to birds or other animals getting into the home, there are several things to be aware of.  First, how are they getting in?  Sometimes, it’s difficult to find out and looking around on the ladder or roof may not show the entry spot.  If this is the case, I would suggest going up into the attic, during the daytime,  then looking for an area of light to the outside.  This will usually let you discover the hole.  However, if this doesn’t work, take a look at the gable vents.  Usually, there will be a screen (like a window screen – which can be torn easily, allowing entry).  If this screen is ripped or missing, you’ll want to replace it.  I will usually use a hardware cloth, which is like chicken wire, only stronger and with smaller holes.  This can be purchase at hardware stores.  It can be cut to size with wire cutters, but be sure to wear gloves.  The easiest and best way to attach the screening in the attic is to use a staple gun.

And if need be, there is always yelling and banging pots – but that probably won’t make your neighbors happy!

Get It Done

In most cases, this can be done without an enormous amount of work, as long as the wall consists of drywall and not plaster. The main cause of difficulty is if there are electrical lines or plumbing behind the area.

There isn’t a way to know for sure, but there are a few things you could look for in order to be better informed. For example, is there a bathroom directly above this one, with a vanity or toilet in about the same place? If so, the drain stack pipe could be in this area, or plumbing supply lines. Or, if there is a light above the existing medicine cabinet, there could be electrical wiring behind the wall. Electrical wires can be moved out of the way much easier than any plumbing lines.

Unfortunately, the only way to know for sure would be to cut out a hole in the area you want to install the new cabinet, and take a look.

To do this, make a hole directly behind where the existing cabinet is. That way, if you find plumbing that will prevent you from completing the project, the hole can be patched with a rough repair and you can rehang your existing medicine cabinet without having to do a finished drywall repair.

If you find nothing behind the area where the new cabinet will go, then continue to cut out the area for the new cabinet, consulting the directions for the dimensions of the rough cut-out. Chances are, that when you have removed the drywall for this cut-out, you will find a stud running up and down behind the area. You will need to cut this portion of the stud at the top and bottom of your opening. You will then need to create a top and bottom plate where this stud has been cut, essentially creating a “box”, which will surround the new medicine cabinet. Because you previously cut the drywall to the correct opening size, these 2x4’ss can go behind the top and bottom edges of the drywall, so they won’t be seen. When this is done, insert the medicine cabinet, screwing the top and bottom into these 2×4 box you created.

If the medicine cabinet has a mirror, be sure to smile at yourself for a job well done!

Time: 1 ½ hours
Materials: Drywall knife or utility blade, 2×4, drill, screws, sawz-all
Difficulty: Medium

-S. K.,  St. Louis

A clogged dryer vent can indeed be a fire hazard.  If you think about the vent being stuffed with lint and the hot dryer air trying to get past it, it isn’t difficult for a fire to get started.  I’ve heard that hikers sometimes take a small bag of dryer lint with them to help get a campfire started.  That should give you an idea of the danger.

If you don’t clean your vent regularly, you might notice that the dryer takes longer to dry a load of clothes.  In most cases, there is nothing wrong with the dryer, it’s just that the circulation of the heat is reduced by not being able to exit.  Cleaning the vent and keeping it clean can likely reduce the running time of the dryer.

The easiest way to clean a dryer vent is to use an electric leaf blower, if you have one.  Begin by moving the dryer out to gain access to where the vent goes into the wall.  Remove the vent hose, which is usually attached to the dryer with a 3” or 4” clamp.  Loosening the clamp with a screwdriver will allow you to do remove it.  For the leaf blower, you’ll need an attachment to go on the motor body (instead of attaching the long tube pieces that are normally used).  We use a PVC 4” to 3” reducer, but this may not fit perfectly for all leaf blowers, so you may end up just taping this reducer to the end of the leaf blower. 

Next, on the outside of the house, remove the vent cover housing, if you’re able.  Sometimes these housings are just screwed on, so removing it shouldn’t be difficult.  Then, insert the leaf blower where the dryer vent begins at the dryer location and let the air blow all of the lint out.  This may take a few minutes.  It is also a good idea to physically check the outside housing, as sometimes the lint may build up here, just before it exits the house.   If so, just remove as much as you can here by hand, then run the leaf blower again.  Afterwards, it’s just a matter of putting things back the way they were.

If you don’t have an electric leaf blower, you may have to disassemble the duct work in order to clean it.  If you have the solid, rigid ducts, this can take quite a bit of time.  If you have the flexible ducts, it is usually easier to simply replace it, as the cost is about $15, and no matter what you do, you’ll never  get all of the lint out of them.

Good luck!

Materials: electric leaf blower, duct tape, maybe a reducer fitting; screw driver

Time: about 1 hour

Difficulty: easy

Oh the joys of pet ownership! First, you may want to think about something. Is the dog still chewing? If so, you may want to wait on the repairs until the dog stops chewing. Otherwise, you may find yourself doing this repair more than once!

If the chewing is along the jamb of the door, use sand paper to try to smooth it out. For deep gouges, use a wood filler and a spackle knife to spread the filler into these areas. Let it dry and sand it smooth, before priming or staining.

If the dog has chewed the trim (casing) around the door frame, this might be easier to replace than repair. It’s just too difficult to sand them down and try to build them up with putty – especially on the newer ones that are more decorative. Your labor to try to repair it would be much more than it would be to simply replace it.

If you’re replacing the casing, first remove one side or piece so that you can take it to the hardware store to get it matched. There are several types of profiles as well as widths, so it is best to be sure. If your casing is painted, try to get casing that is already primed. It will save you time and money.

Using a razor blade, score the line where the casing meets the wall and the line where it meets the door frame. This will help when pulling the casing off, to make sure it doesn’t pull the paint away with it. Using a small crow bar, gently get it under the casing at the top or bottom and begin to pull it away just a little. Move the bar up or down, continuing the process until the entire piece is pulled away, going slowly. After it’s off, be sure that all of the nails came out with it. If not, remove the remaining nails.

When you’ve purchased the new casing, measure the new piece, and then cut it with a miter saw. If you don’t have a miter saw, you can purchase a hand saw with a miter box for a reasonable price, as opposed to renting a powered one. Make your 45 degree cut for the top and cut the piece to the proper length. Then, using finish nails, nail the casing into place, putting the nails in about each two feet.

Materials: Utility knife, small crow bar, miter box and saw, tape measure, latex caulk and caulk gun, spackle, finish nails, nail set, fine grain sand paper, hammer, spackle knife.
Time: About one hour or two for one piece of casing if this is your first time doing this.
Difficulty: Easy, but this requires some patience!

M. R. – Eureka, Mo

Most likely, this will be an easy fix.  Until not long ago, gutters were usually installed with nails.  As the seasons cause the wood to expand and contract, nails can become loose in their hole.  If your gutters are not kept clean, the weight of the debris and water which might sit in the gutters, can add up enough to cause the nail to back out, letting the gutter pull away from the gutter board it is attached to.  In most cases, installing a new gutter bracket, with a screw instead of a nail, will correct the problem.

Begin by setting up your ladder under the area where the butter begins to pull away.  Have your hammer with you so that you can remove the nail from the old gutter bracket.  Once this is removed, install the new bracket.  We like the type of bracket that is readily available from the hardware store, that comes with its own screw.  So, it’ just a matter of hooking the bracket onto the gutter, then screwing the screw into the gutter and gutter board behind it.  As you position the gutter when you’re doing this, try to get the gutter to be in the same position it was.  In other words, don’t raise or lower the gutter.  As long as you weren’t having a problem with the flow of the water in the gutter, keep it in the same position.  Once you have your first bracket in, move your ladder down  to install the next bracket.  You should have a bracket for each  2 ½ feet. 

If by chance you’re screwing in the new bracket, but the screw keeps turning, it is likely that the gutter board behind your gutter has some rot.  You can try a different spot to see if the screw will find better wood, but even if it does, this soft wood on the gutter board will need your attention in the future.  Replacing a section of gutter board is a more difficult job, but one that you shouldn’t ignore.

Time: about ½ hour

Materials: ladder, drill, gutter bracket, hammer to remove the old gutter bracket nail

Difficulty: easy

Speaking of taking the top off the ol’ convertible, it’s easy enough to take off and store a soft top of a vehicle, but what happens if you have a hard top? Not only is it more difficult to store, but you also have to find a place to store it! Sometimes, people with hard-topped vehicles are forced to keep their hard tops on the floor of the garage or maybe even the basement and keep the vehicle outside, which wastes space and makes for a vehicle unprotected against natural elements.

This was exactly the predicament for a customer who has a hard top Jeep Wrangler. Every time he took off the top to his beloved Jeep, he was force to keep the hard top on the floor of the garage or put it into storage somewhere while his Jeep, equipped with a soft top, sat outside of the garage.

Luckily for him, he called Get It Done, Inc.! We took a look at his predicament and solved all of his problems straight away.

How? Well, we installed a pulley system that is designed to hang a hard top from his Jeep!

We used a product designed for hanging vehicles’ hard tops, basically using pulleys and wire and attaching it to the garage wall and ceiling. Now the customer is able to back his Jeep in, pull down the cables, attach the cables to the hard top, then pull it up, where it will remain until the winter season starts once again.

The customer no longer has to keep it on the floor of the garage and the Jeep outside the garage! Now he can enjoy the summer more easily and still use his garage efficiently!

If you have a similar problem or have different predicaments around the home, don’t hesitate to call us here at Get It Done, Inc. Our phone number is (314) 966-3251. You can also visit us at our website at www.getitdoneinc.com to see which services we provide. You can even see before and after photos of projects that we tackled! Call us today – you won’t be disappointed with our work; we guarantee it!

You’re not alone. I see this problem several times in a year. It usually happens as someone is opening a door during a high wind, or the door wasn’t properly latched. The wind catches it and pushes it so hard that it can bend the rod on the closer, as well as cause damage to the door jamb. In most cases, this can be a simple repair.

Begin by replacing the closer, which can be purchased at most all hardware stores. Follow the directions, but basically it is just removing the old screws and replacing the unit. However, at this point, it is a good idea to make an adjustment, so that this may not happen again. The screws that come with the closers are fairly short. I would suggest getting longer screws, such as 2” to 2 ½”. The screws that come with the closer are usually the same color as the closer (black, white, etc.), so the new, longer screws may need some touch up paint on the heads of the screws after you install them. These longer screws are only for the end of the closer which is screwed into the door jamb, not into the door itself.

Once the new closer is installed, you may want to check the closing strength and make a simple adjustment. There is a screw on the end of the closer which allows the door to close either quickly, or slowly, depending upon how this screw is adjusted. In other words, if the door is closing so slowly that it doesn’t actually engage the lock, adjust the screw so that the door closes with more force.

Now for the damage done to the door jamb. Normally, this type of accident will split the wood below the area where the closer was screwed in. If the split in the wood is not too severe, you can use finish nails to secure both sides of the crack. Then spackle the holes and caulk along the crack, and touch up the paint.

There is one more item to mention, if this storm door problem has happened before, or if you are in an area that gets frequent wind gusts. A safety chain can be installed between the door and the jamb. This is also sold at most hardware stores. The chain is attached at the jamb and the door. If the wind begins to pull the door too far, the chain stops it in time to prevent any damage. The chain is enclosed in a plastic covering, so it won’t hurt the door finish.

Time: about one hour
Difficulty: Easy
Materials: storm door closer, painters caulk and caulk gun, touch-up paint and brush, finish nails and hammer

That’s right – we’ve been blessed to have a mild winter this year. We’ve had maybe two winter storms this season, and even those “storms” pale in comparison to the typical snowstorms we experience here in the Metro St. Louis area.

There is a price that we will soon have to pay for experiencing a mild winter, though – INSECTS. Soon enough, the insects that have been hibernating throughout the winter will reappear in the coming weeks, and their numbers will increase as they breed in large numbers (the typical spider can live one to two seasons and can produce as many as 3,000 eggs!).

And those insects don’t just hang around outside, waiting to greet you whenever you set foot in their territory. They can also find hiding places inside your home to live and breed in. Once those insects hatch, their numbers will quickly increase, and you may find yourself with a big problem on your hands.

If you want to prevent insects from coming into your home (or if you need help in controlling an already existing problem), look no further! Just follow the I.N.S.P.E.C.T. way, and you should be on your way to being insect-free this spring!

INvestigate – Now’s the time to whip out that magnifying glass and give Sherlock Holmes a run for his money by becoming a great pest detective! Inside your home, you should open your food containers to make sure no critters have found their way inside, look for any pest droppings, look for cracks in any of your interior walls, and check any and all vents that lead to the outside. Look for holes in your window screens, too. If you find any holes, be sure to repair them! Keep in mind that insects like to hang out in cool, dark places like attics and basements, so be extra thorough in those areas!

Outside the home, you should check for cracks in any exterior walls or any holes in the exterior. Beware also of woodpiles and plants that may be a bit too close to your home, and check any structure that can potentially hold standing water (which mosquitoes LOVE to breed in). Keep your eyes out for any nests for those stinging insects on the ground, in the gutters, or tucked away in any corner, too.

Study – Have you found any critters that don’t belong in your home? This next step is for you! Be sure to identify your pest problem so you can use the proper method to solve and control the issue. Search reputable online sites to identify pests or you can simply contact your local garden store. They very well may have more insights into the sorts of pests that could pop up in your area.

Prepare – Once you’ve identified the issue, you need to arm yourself with the proper tools to get the job done. Do you need gloves? Or caulk? Perhaps insecticides or herbicides? Do your research – talk to professionals and use the right products to get the job done. This is the fastest way to effectively ridding yourself of your pest problems.

Eliminate – Now that you’ve identified the problems and have the tools and the talent to get the job done, it’s time to eliminate all access points that insects can get in through. Seal your windows, and caulk the gaps around the windows and doors. Fix your water leaks. Maintain neglected or overgrown shrubbery and trees near your home. You may not realize it, but by taking care of those areas outdoors, you are decreasing your risk for Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and infections and allergic reactions that come from bites and stings from ticks, fleas, and stinging insects. You’re also doing Fido a favor!

Clean – Now that things are sealed up, be sure to clean up your home! Store your cereals and other foods in plastic containers with secure lids so pests won’t find any food. Vacuum your floors, especially those hard-to-reach spots, and take extra care to clean dark corners.

Treat – Use the right type of pesticide products to protect your home, lawn, and community from pests! Be sure to carefully read labels and warnings with each pesticide. If you have a bigger pest problem such as a termite infestation or a wasp infestation in your basement, calling a professional is your best bet.

Are you ready to get the job done? Need help sealing off any entryways for those pesky pets? Call us here at Get It Done, Inc. at (314) 966-3251 or visit us at our website at www.getitdoneinc.com! Let us help you win the war against insects by fixing up your house the right way!

Basically, this all has to do with your gas furnace. Your gas furnace operates on combustion, or igniting of the natural gas. All combustion requires oxygen. So, what your inspector is telling you is that you don’t have enough combustion air around your furnace. As some furnaces get their fresh air from outside, those that don’t require a large open area in order to get this fresh air. If your furnace room is too small, you need to get more combustible air into the room.

The easiest way to do this is to install cold air return grills either in the door to the furnace room, or on one of the walls. Usually, inspectors like for a grill to be installed at the lower portion of the door or wall, as well as the upper portion. So, you’re going to need to get two grills.

It is up to you as to where you install the grills, on the door or the wall. Installing them on the wall is easier if you have drywall instead of plaster. For installation on a wall, choose an area near the furnace and start at about 1 foot from the ceiling. Measure the outline of the return grill onto the wall and plan to cut the drywall about one inch less than the dimensions of the grill. Cut out the drywall, mark the location of the holes for securing the grill, then install anchors such as zip-its into the drywall, then secure it. Do the same for the lower area, having the lower portion of the grill about one foot off the floor.

If you’re installing the grills on the furnace door, remove the hinge pins and put the door on a saw horse. Mark the locations for the grill as noted above, then cut the holes. For this, you’ll need a jig saw. When you’re done, you may decide to install a grill on the inside portion of the door as well, because of the way it looks. There isn’t a requirement for this, but it will make the finished job look better.

Monthly Maintenance Checklist:
•Winter weather can cause damage to your roof as a result of ice damming or damage to shingles. A visual inspection from the ground can help you spot immediate problems.
•Check showers/tubs for caulking and grouting needs. If you see any areas that are cracked or pulling away, water damage can occur to walls and create significant problems.
•Winter is a great time to clean out clutter in your closets, basement or garage. If it seems like an overwhelming project, simply set aside a small amount of time on a regular basis instead of trying to tackle the entire task at one time. You’d be surprised how quickly you can get through a project this way.

Materials: 2 cold air return grills (maybe four if you’re installing them on a door), screws, screwdriver, drywall saw (for walls), jig saw (for doors), measuring tape, drywall anchors, perhaps a pair of saw horses and a straight edge

Difficulty: Easy
Time: 1 hour

In April and May last year, we experienced one of the largest and most damaging floods of the Mississippi River in the past century, comparable even to the notorious flood of 1993. In fact, the flooding was so intense that a two-mile hole was blasted in the levee protecting the Birds Point-New Madrid Floodway, flooding 130,000 acres of farmland in Missouri so that the town of Cairo, Illinois, an historic town located at the confluence of the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers, could be saved.

Springtime will arrive in the northern hemisphere on Tuesday, March 20, and with it, rainstorms will surely arrive. Perhaps we won’t see record flooding, but it’s always best to be prepared for the worst. Now is the time to inspect and fix your gutters and downspouts before the spring rain comes!

In the fight against rainwater and flooding, your gutters are the first line of defense. They, along with the downspout, aid in protecting the house from the rain and the melting snow, that is, if they are functioning properly.

But how do you know if your gutters are in good shape in the first place?

First of all, you need to clean out all the debris from your gutters and your downspouts thoroughly. Then inspect your gutters. Your gutters should be installed in such a way that there is a drop of approximately 1/16” for each foot of length the gutter runs. While you can use a chalk line and a level to mark the slope of your gutters, the easiest way to see if your gutters are working properly is to simply pour a bucket of water into the gutter. Watch how it flows. If it runs off without leaving pools of water in the gutter, then you’re in great shape! If you see low spots, the water will sit in the gutter, showing you where the low spots are.

If you find that your gutters are clogged, you should probably remove the elbow in your downspout to check for clogs as they almost always tend to occur in the elbow. If the clog isn’t there, you’ll need to look further within the downspout to locate it.

Found a leak? No problem! Scrape off all the rust with a steel brush (and we mean ALL of it – if you leave any, you’ll have to do it all over again in the future!). Next, cover the area to be repaired with a thin layer of asphaltum paint and let it dry thoroughly. Next, cover it with a heavy layer of the plastic cement that is specially made for roofs and gutters. After that, simply cover the whole area with strips of heavy aluminum foil while the cement is still wet. Press the foil down tightly into the gutter using a dry cloth. Oh, and you might want to have gloves on when you do this.

Taking care of your gutter system will take care of you in the long run. You’ll save your tree roots and plants from dying, your basement from flooding, your floorboards from leaking, and your house from becoming full of mold and mildew.

As an extra incentive, caring for your gutters and downspouts and inspecting them twice a year can double or even triple the longevity of the life of your drainage system, which, in the long run, can save quite a lot of money.

If you have any questions or would rather have a professional tackle the job, feel free to call us here at Get It Done, Inc.! Our number is (314) 966-3251. You can also check out our website at www.getitdoneinc.com to see what we can do for you!